Put simply, I wish more people made lists of coffee shops for places around Japan, especially outside the big cities, so I know where to go when visiting.

Here’s mine for Sakata.

Some notes before we get started:

In rural Japan, or at least in Yamagata, independent coffee shops open very late by New Zealand standards. One excellent place even opens at 1 PM! Unheard of in New Zealand, where people drink their coffee before work or at the start of the day.

This obviously isn’t the case in Japan.

From my experience, coffee in Japan is more of an afternoon affair, often enjoyed after lunch. Perhaps it’s because people work late? I’m not sure. Either way, if you need a morning caffeine fix, you’re better off making it yourself. Fortunately, there are plenty of great coffee roasters around, including in Sakata. In fact, there are so many that I’ve roasters say it’s hard to be profitable. One guy even pivoted to making coffee roasting machines instead!

Also, a head’s up.

My typical morning routine involves brewing coffee at home, though I’ve recently gotten back into using nel cloth filters. Unlike paper, they leave behind some oil in the brew, and with darker roasts, it’s chef’s kiss perfection.

When I go out for coffee, I usually get something with milk. I’ve been making black coffee at home for over a decade, so that influences where I visit, and, therefore, the recommendations in this article.

Also, Starbucks and Doutor are decent in a pinch. When I first arrived 15 years ago, Doutor was literally the only option in town. I spent countless hours there between 2012 and 2014 studying for my Master’s degree. For that, I owe Doutor a debt of gratitude. I still haven’t had a black coffee there, though (and I never will).

So without further ado, here’s what I think of the cafes in Sakata City:

1. Obataro: Hiyori-yama Bakery and Cafe: Your Own Personal WeWork

Open: 9 AM – 6 PM, every day
Best for: Working, casual meetups, family-friendly atmosphere

Hiyori-yama Bakery and cafe (Instagram), known as Obataro1, is where I go most often. It’s great for both work and casual meetups, including with kids.

The coffee is solid—nothing spectacular, but it does the job. They offer espresso-based drinks and pour-over (machine-brewed). What makes Obataro stand out is the space: a beautifully renovated Japanese building that even featured in the Academy Award-winning film Departures.

If you visit on a weekday outside lunch hours, you’ll often have the place to yourself. Upstairs, a friend called it “a personal WeWork.” There’s strong WiFi, nice views, a bakery, and a solid food menu. Plus, it’s open every day, which isn’t as common as you’d think. The morning set (a bakery item + black coffee) for about ¥600 is great value.

A very good option all around!

2. Tasty n Peter Coffee: Best Espresso in Town

Open: Mondays, Tuesdays, Saturdays (hours vary, check Instagram)
Best for: Espresso, specialty coffee, coffee beans

Peter coffee (Instagram) serves some of the best espresso in rural Japan. Their pour-over coffee is also excellent, but their espresso-based drinks—like their Kokuto (brown sugar) latte and Gibraltar (a larger macchiato)—are top-tier. There are some very nice albeit expensive snacks available as well. I especially like the banana bread.

However, Peter Coffee isn’t great for working. It’s only open three days a week, has no WiFi, and has an awkward layout. The shop is also part of a pottery/ knick knacks store, which isn’t ideal if you have young kids.

Despite that, I go often. The beans are specialty-grade (though I personally don’t chase ultra-light roasts). The price is high, but the quality makes it worthwhile.

Why the name?

Peter Coffee is named after Peter the shepherd from Heidi. Murayama-san, the owner, also farms sheep. That’s why the shop is only open three days a week.

Peter coffee is where I did my coffee brewing competitions:

3. Somokusha: Quaint Japanese-style cafe

Open: Wednesday – Sunday, 1 PM – 6 PM
Best for: Atmosphere, coffee beans, quiet relaxation

Somokusha (Instagram, be warned, they spelled it wrong) is my go-to for beans, even though it’s a 20-minute drive. That should tell you a lot. Even when the café is closed, they sell beans via a vending machine (no points, but still worth it). Their beans are the best value around.

The café itself is a converted kominka (traditional house) with a beautiful garden. The atmosphere is unbeatable. The coffee is great (pour-over only), and they offer a small selection of sweets. You can work there, but there’s no WiFi.

Bonus: It’s located in Matsuyama, a historic castle town with a stunning temple garden and amazing views of Shonai. Overall one of my favourite places in Shonai, let alone Japan.

4. Kissa Cloak: Great little Kissa

Open: Thursday – Monday, 11:30 AM – 6 PM
Best for: Quiet workspace, Dutch coffee, homemade desserts

Kissa Cloak (Instagram) is my go-to for getting work done after lunch. Abe-san, the owner, specializes in mizudashi (Dutch-style cold brew) coffee. If you like black coffee, this is your spot.

The café also serves curry, pizza toast, and handmade sweets, including, if you’re lucky, incredible matcha terrine. The seating is laptop-friendly, WiFi is fast, and atmosphere peaceful.

Two caveats: There’s a smokers’ section, and the parking situation is awkward. Also, don’t come here for a loud chat—this place is purposefully quiet, which I for one appreciate at times.

5. Fractal Coffee: NZ-style coffee in rural Japan

Open: Irregular (check Instagram)
Best for: Flat whites, takeaway

Fractal Coffee (Instagram) is the only place in Shonai serving New Zealand/Australian-style coffee (flat whites, long blacks, etc.). It’s a modern, minimalist container café outside the owner’s house.

As such, there is no room to drink, and there is only limited parking. The coffee is very good though, and the owner and her family are very nice too.

Fractal is only open a few days each week, only for a few hours, and it changes month to month so you have to check the schedule on Instagram before going. It’s also nearly as far away from me as Somokusha. In spite of that, the coffee is very good, and I try to go there as much as I can.

6. Sansho Koji: Fun little shop in the heart of Sakata

Open: Every day, 10 AM – 6 PM
Best for: Lunch, pour-over & espresso, WiFi

Sansho Koji (Instagram, they also spelled it wrong) next to Sakata City Hall is another great spot to get some work done. There are many different menu options for lunch, and they have both pour-over and espresso-based drinks available. Sansho Koji roast their own beans in store, so you know they care, and it shows in the cups they serve. They also have free wifi available.

Not surprisingly, Sansho Koji gets very popular at lunch time, often with older women, couples, or other groups. I often feel guilty for taking up space, so tend to sit at the bar counter, or go after the lunch rush. Very good service and excellent food like sandwiches, galettes, and pasta.

7. Kerun: Famous for the Yukiguni Cocktail

Open: Every day, 10:30 AM – 5 PM (Fridays & Saturdays until 10 PM)
Best for: Classic kissa experience, desserts

Famous for The Yukiguni (Snow Country) Cocktail. See here for the film, and here for the article.

Kerun (no Instagram) was one of the most popular bars around, but the shop had to move as it was in an earthquake-risk building. It is now in a much quieter location in a brand new building. The couple that run the place are older, but they are also some of the nicest people I have ever met.

Like Cloak, Kerun is also a Kissa. This means they sell typically black coffee, which is very good, and a whole array of light meals. Their cheesecake is especially delicious, and sometimes they also have apple pie.

Their tables are a bit small for me, as are a lot of other places. As such, I can’t stay there too long without getting a sore back, and there is no wifi, but you would be able to get some work done there.

The end.

Or is it?

I hope you enjoyed this, and that you can enjoy some coffee when you come visit me in Sakata! (You will come visit me, right?)

Oh, there is also Coffee Island, but it’s in a supermarket. Hardly inspiring, but award-winning beans. So there’s that. 

Also, sorry if I missed your shop. These are the ones I frequent. There is also a Komeida Coffee now too, and Konbinis also have coffee that is cheap and… consumable.