While it’s no Yoshino, Arakura-yama sure offers some of the best mountain Sakura (cherry blossom) views in Japan. The paths were not too difficult, only a few steep inclines, and the trees provided plenty of cover from the sun and rain. A beginner might struggle in places, but I would recommend Arakura-yama for anyone who loves mountain sakura, awesome views, and awesome forest shrines.
Arakura Jinja and the Legend of Ukemochi
Founded in 717 and located in the middle of a forest on a steep mountain slope, Arakura Jinja was one of the coolest I’ve ever been to. Not only is the place itself cool, the god/ goddess it worships has quite a famous myth about them. Arakura Jinja is dedicated to Arakura Gongen (Avatar), Ukemochi-no-kami, the god/goddess (still contested) who protects food, and Hayagriva (horse-headed avatar). According to Kojiki, one of the ancient books of Japan, Ukemochi-no-kami prepared a feast from all crevices in their body, including rather unsanitary locations.
This disgusted Tsukuyomi-no-Mikoto (the god of the moon) so much that he killed Ukemochi-no-kami. Hearing of Ukemochi-no-kami’s death at the hands of Tsukuyomi-no-Mikoto, Amaterasu-no-omikami (the goddess of the sun) was so disgusted that she vowed never to meet the killer again. This is the origin story of night and day in Japanese mythology. Interestingly, the nearby Gassan of the Dewa Sanzan is said to be Tsukuyomi-no-Mikoto as opposed to Amaterasu-no-omikami enshrined at Ise Grand Shrine in Mie Prefecture.
Arakura-Jinja
In the Arakura Jinja complex, there is a long staircase with red bridge and pond at the base, a small clearing in the centre with various artefacts dedicated to the gods, and some of the most beautiful shrine buildings at the top that looked brand new. In the middle ages, Arakura-yama supported the uprising against Toyotomi Hideyoshi in 1590, but lost to Echigo Uesugi. As a result, the 33 Shukubo (pilgrim’s lodges) on the mountain were all completely destroyed, and the land forfeited. In recent years, worship of Arakura Gongen (avatar) and its Buddhist manifestation Hayagriva (a horse-headed avatar) has been revived at Arakura Jinja. A Taishu horse is dedicated there, and the shrine complex also holds Oshima and Yakumon Shrines. Needless to say, Arakura Jinja is sure a sight to behold.