It could be the pristine grounds of the former samurai castle Shinto shrine. It could be the flower on the emblem for the castle the shop is named after, the original proprietorโs favourite flower. It could be that, or it could be the thought that the current priestess was only a young girl when she helped out her own grandmother in the original restaurant, named ๅซ่ถๆฐ่ใใใฐใฟ Kissa Mingei Katabami, some 30-odd years ago.
For whatever reason, Katabami is a cafe / restaurant I see myself visiting time and time again.
It was out of the blue.
A few weeks back my friend sent me a message asking if I wanted to โinfluenceโ for him at the opening of a new restaurant. Iโm happy to help a friend, and Iโm happy to use my limited ability to โinfluenceโ as well.
But to be honest, Iโm probably most happy for a free meal.
So I said yes.
Fast forward to a few weeks later. Another friend, who happens to be a Shinto priestess, emails me an official invite to the opening of the restaurant. This was when I discovered the restaurant was located in the grounds of her Jinja (shrine), Shonai Jinja, one of the biggest shrines in these parts. Shonai Jinja is located in Tsuruoka Park (or it could be the other way around). Tsuruoka City was Japanโs first UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy.
I rocked on up to the restaurant a little before opening time. As is custom, I paid my respects to the Kami, and was invited into the waiting room. There I learned who I would be sitting next to, the father of that first friend, who I was meeting for the first time.
Nothing weird about that.
Seriously. He was a very cool dude. Runs a clinic right near where I live. We talked about religion in Japan, which I guess is normal if youโre in a shinto shrine talking to a yamabushi from New Zealand.
What is weird, I guess, is that my friend is a doctor. Heโs a doctor, but heโs also an entrepreneur, a serial one at that: Someone who has built gyms (for exercise, not Pokemon), container โhotelsโ (what we would call motels in New Zealand), an onigiri rice ball shop, and more recently, a rest home.
Can you see why Iโd want to help this friend out? Anyway, when the time came my friendโs father and I entered the restaurant through the customary Noren curtains over the door.
And I was taken aback.
The place is a gorgeous mix of retro Japanese decor and more modern amenities. Retro Japanese places tend to also have retro heating and cooling, like the Kerosene heaters Japan loves to bits (true (and sad) story).
Katabami had none of that.
It kept the old school vibes, and added modern comfort. In the middle of summer this was very much welcome.
Once through the door we were asked to choose our meals and drinks. Our choices were two Omusubi Onigiri rice balls out of:
- Unadama โeel ballโ (much nicer than it sounds, Japan does eel right)
- Ume Tororo Konbu (plum Tororo kelp), or
- Osekihan (lit. โhonourable red riceโ) which is mochi rice with red beans that has been steamed in its own broth.
Honourable Knots and Rice Balls
Onigiri can also be called Omusubi. This is literally โhonourable things that are tied togetherโ. Or, more simply, โhonourable knotsโ. Musubi is a massive concept in Japan, think the mizuhiki knots tied over shugi-bukuro, the envelopes used primarily for handing money to people at ceremonies such as weddings and, um, funerals (called kลden-bukuro).
I need to check my facts on this, but I believe the ropes attached to bells at shrines you ring to call the Kami forward are also tied to this concept (pun not intended). Typically the rope will be red and white.
Now for the mains
For appetizer drinks we had freshly-squeezed apple juice from Infini Farms in nearby Kushibiki. As much as possible, as youโd guess for an agricultural region, the ingredients were locally-sourced. Of course the rice was premium-grade Tsuyahime from Shonai. I may be biased, but Shonai rice is arguably the best in Japan.
When our meals came out, I got talking to the priestess. She told me the miso dengaku tofu, a sweet miso paste on top of a piece of tofu, was her grandmotherโs original recipe. Iโm not sure exactly what it is, but the green stuff around the pickled plum onigiri (centre front in the picture), was delish. Of course the miso soup was great as well, freshly sourced ingredients and chefs who know their stuff and all that.
After-meal Drinks
I was well impressed with the after-meal drinks they served. I am a big fan of matcha, Matcha Latte is my Starbucks go-to, and I even make it at home sometimes with Manuka honey from New Zealand when I have it.
As such, I consider myself not just a matcha lover, but a matcha connoisseur. Take this from me,
Katabamiโs Matcha Latte was next level.
It wasnโt made with milk, as youโd expect, so technically it isnโt a latte. It was made with Amazake, a sweet non-alcoholic (or low-alcohol) drink made from fermented rice. This means there is no sugar used (as far as Iโm aware), but it is still rather sweet, and when mixed with the bitterness of the matcha it makes a very good combination.
Katabami Cafe: Would you like purification with that?
Iโm very much looking forward to visiting at different times of the year. Dining is a part of shrine hospitality. Clean, mindful, and seasonal eating is seen as its own form of quiet purification.
And who knew that a simple onigiri, well, one eaten on shrine grounds, could be so symbolic? If you ever find yourself wandering Tsuruoka Park or visiting Shonai Shrine, stop by Katabami. Even the simplest meal here feels like part of something bigger.
Katabami Cafรฉ: Quick Info
- Location: Inside Shonai Jinja (Shonai Shrine), Tsuruoka Park, Yamagata
- Opened: July 7, 2025 (revival of ๅซ่ถๆฐ่ใใใฐใฟ cafรฉ from the 90s)
- Opening Hours: 10:00โ17:00 daily (last order 16:30)
- Closed: Open year-round, no fixed holidays
- Parking: Free parking at Tsuruoka Parkโs East Lot & City Hall 2nd Lot
- Pet-friendly: Terrace seating welcomes dogs
Menu
- Omusubi Zen Set
2 seasonal rice balls (e.g. eel & egg, plum kelp, red bean rice)
Miso dengaku tofu, pickles, miso soup, drink & petite dessert - Seasonal Desserts
Monaka wafers, parfaits, and more - Signature Drinks
– Amazake matcha latte, cream soda floats, coffee & tea - Takeout available for rice balls and drinks
Instagram: @katabami_cafe_shonai
Special: Shonai-wari discountโgroups with a Shonai local get 10% off