MT. UBAGATAKE

うばがたけ 

Mt. Ubagatake in autumn

姥ヶ岳

Must-see autumn alpine dreamland between the two tallest Dewa Sanzan peaks with a twisted backstory

Despite its appearance as an autumn wonderland nestled between Mt. Gassan and Mt. Yudono of the Dewa Sanzan, Mt. Ubagatake has a very twisted history

MT. UBAGATAKE

姥ヶ岳うばがたけ 

Mt. Ubagatake (姥ヶ岳うばがたけ) is a 1670m (5479 ft.) peak in the Murayama and Shonai regions of Yamagata prefecture. Mt. Ubagatake is open from July to October. Mt. Ubagatake is a level 1 in terms of physical demand, which means it is easy to hike, has a A technical grade, which means it requires little expertise, and you want to allow at least 1 hour for a climb.

Mountain Range

Mt. Gassan

Region

Murayama, Shonai

Elevation

1670m (5479 ft.)

Technical Demand

A (requires little expertise)

Physical Demand

1 (easy to hike)

Trails

1) Gassan Ski Lift Trail 2) Ubasawa Koya Ato Trail

Best time to climb

July to the first snow of October

Day trip possible?

Yes

Minimum Time Required

1 hour

The Widow’s Peak: Ubaga-take (Mt. Ubagatake) of North Japan

North Japan’s Widow’s Peak: Ubaga-take

Despite being one of the peaks off Gassan, the tallest of the Dewa Sanzan mountains, Ubaga-take is a surprisingly easy hike. Not only that, Ubaga-take is one of the best spots in the prefecture to take in the autumn leaves, has the latest ski season in the whole of Japan, and boasts a 360° panorama over Gassan and towards Yudono-san, the Asahi Alps to the south, and on fine days the Shonai Plains, Sea of Japan, and even as far as the Oga peninsula in Akita Prefecture is visible.

But don’t let this simple explanation fool you. In truth, Ubaga-take’s namesake is a strange and frankly morbid one that gives much more context to Gassan’s moniker of The Dewa Sanzan’s “Mountain of Death”. If you can get over that though, this peak is a real sight to behold, especially during the leaves of autumn, or did I mention that already.

How Ubaga-take became The Widow’s Peak 

Mt. Ubagatake in autumn
The trails of Ubaga-take from the top of Gassan in autumn

Written as 姥ヶ岳, the Kanji for Ubaga-take quite literally means ‘the peak of old women’. On the surface you might think Ubaga-take was simply named after an old woman, an old woman loved hiking there, or perhaps an old woman used it for collecting mountain vegetables or something similar. However, the reason I heard is much, much, darker than that. 

Gassan is known as the mountain where our souls venture to after we pass, and if legend is to be believed, Ubaga-take got its name as the place where they sent old women, almost always widows, out to pasture. Perhaps they were just giving the old women a head start up Gassan, The Dewa Sanzan’s Mountain of Death. Either way, Ubaga-take wouldn’t exactly be the worst place to draw your last breath.

Ubaga-take and the Dewa Sanzan

Distant paths are visible in the sunlight-lit area of Mt. Ubagatake shrouded in cloud and shadow
The valleys of Gassan lead the way to Ubaga-take

Ubaga-take is located to the south west of Gassan alongside the ancient pilgrimage path that connects the Dewa Sanzan’s tallest peak with Yudono-san. This makes it a great detour when climbing Gassan from the Uba-sawa Trailhead, or as a stop along the ancient pilgrimage route. 

Of course Ubaga-take is a great spot in and of itself, taking only 30 minutes one-way from the top of the Gassan Ski Lift, or as a longer hike for those opting to walk the whole way, my recommendation for those wanting to take in the autumn leaves. 

Hiking and Skiing Season on Ubaga-take

Bright reds and yellows in the foreground light up a cloudy landscape on Mt. Ubagatake
Cloud covers the path amongst the autumn leaves of Ubaga-take

With more than 10 metres of snow settling on its summit annually, Gassan gets the heaviest snow of any mountain in Japan. This deep snow dictates Ubaga-take’s hiking season, which begins in July and usually ends in the middle of October, again once the first snow of the coming winter falls. Ubaga-take really shines once the leaves have started turning from about mid-September onwards. However, the ski season starts much earlier than that.

The heavy snow on Gassan means that it has the latest ski season in all of Japan. As home to the Gassan Ski Lift, Ubaga-take can be enjoyed as early as April, when people flock from all over the country to get in some summer skiing. Making use of two heights of ropes on the ski lift, the combined skiing and hiking seasons means that the Gassan Ski lift on Ubaga-take might just have the longest period of use of any ski lift in Japan, open at least six months of the year.

Preparing to hike Ubaga-take

Blue sky and bright white clouds the only thing above a bright green Mt. Gassan viewed from Mt. Ubagatake in autumn
Photo taken on Ubaga-take. The summit of Gassan can only just be made out in the distance

Gassan is about as unpredictable a mountain as it gets, so if you’re heading up Ubaga-take, be sure to be prepared. I’ve been up Gassan multiple times when the farthest we could see was probably 10 or so metres ahead, and if you’re there early in the hiking season, you also have snow to contend with. 

Always bring rain protection and plenty of water and dry food. At the same time, Gassan and Ubaga-take can be very exposed in the summer heat, so sun protection may also be necessary. For those who are there early in July, you will need crampons to combat the snow, but don’t worry if you don’t have any, they can be rented at the lower station of the Gassan Ski Lift.

Getting to Ubaga-take

The Gassan Ski Lift is easily visible in this photo taken from Mt. Ubagatake with the mountains and rivers of inland Yamagata prefecture easily visible in the distance.
The view from Ubaga-take over the Gassan Ski Lift and inland Yamagata Prefecture

Speaking of the Gassan Ski Lift, making use of it is by far the easiest way to climb up Ubaga-take, and in fact this makes it one of the easiest peaks to summit in the whole of Yamagata Prefecture. The Gassan Ski Lift in Ubasawa can be accessed from Route 112, the road connecting inland Yamagata and the Shonai region on the Sea of Japan coast. From Route 112, basically follow the signs to Gassan taking the turnoff in Nishikawa. Make sure you are on Route112 and not the Yamagata Highway, I made that mistake and had to backtrack for at least 30 minutes. 

Gassan and Ubaga-take by bus

There are busses to the Gassan Ski Lift from the Nishikawa Interchange that is connected to the highway bus network, meaning access is possible from big stations nearby such as Yamagata City and Sendai. The busses from the Nishikawa Interchange to Ubasawa where the Gassan Ski Lift is located leave at 8:45, 11:20, 14:15, and 16:35. The busses back from Ubasawa to the Nishikawa Interchange leave at 10:20, 12:20, 14:20, 15:20, and the last bus leaves at 17:33. The one-way journey takes about 50 minutes.

Trailheads up Ubaga-take

The Ubasawa car park is barely visible amongst the carpet of trees in their brilliant autumn hues seen on the way up Mt. Ubagatake
View of the Ubasawa car park from the lower station of the Gassan Ski Lift. Inland Yamagata is in the background.

The Gassan Ski Lift Trail is one of the easiest hikes there is; from the top of the Gassan Ski Lift, Ubaga-take’s summit is only a 30 minute hike. The day we climbed, a mother was walking her kindergarten-aged boy up, and although it did seem a bit of a struggle for him, he was able to reach the summit and was quite delighted indeed in having done so.

Those after a bit more of a challenge can opt for the Ubasawa Koya Ato Trail (Ubasawa Hut Remains Trail) that runs adjacent to the Gassan Ski Lift. This trail adds at least 2 hours to the hike, perfect for really taking in the autumn leaves.

These two trails are the official ones, but it would also be possible to make a stop at Ubaga-take on the way down Gassan, or up from Yudono-san. More on that below.

Ubaga-take via the Gassan Ski Lift (1 hour return)

The bright yellow trees, green grass, and blue sky contrast against the grey and rusted Mt. Gassan Ski Lift on the way up Mt. Ubagatake
The Gassan Ski Lift during the autumn leaves

From the top of the Gassan Ski Lift, head up the trail and keep to the left. Passing a few rest areas to take in the grand views on the way, after about 30 minutes you will reach the summit. Then all you need to do is go back the same way you came.

The Gassan Ski Lift is open for hikers from around the middle of June onwards (the date changes annually). The ski lift costs ¥1,100 return for adults and ¥700 for children, or ¥600 and ¥400 one-way respectively (no age was specified for children).

For more of a challenge

An old and battered wooden sign shows the way to Mt. Yudono, Mt. Ubagatake, and the Gassan Ski Lift to the left, and the summit of Mt. Gassan to the right.
Sign at the Ushikubi (cow’s neck) junction on the trail from Gassan to Yudono-san

If you want to stay out for a little bit longer, keep heading down the other side of the mountain. Go straight at the Kaneuba junction that has a path to the left leading to Yudono-san, and you will soon arrive at another junction called Ushikubi (cow’s neck). This is where the Ubasawa Koya Ato Trail links up, and you can easily cut back to the ski lift. 

Keep to the right as you head down, there is one point where the Ubasawa Koya Ato Trail veers off to the left that you would be best to avoid. This is unless you have two hours to spare and don’t mind hiking all the way back down to the car park, forgoing the ski lift.

If you keep going straight here, you will start heading up to Gassan. From this point to the summit of Gassan you want to allow at least 2 hours one-way. After following a ridge that steadily rises for a few kilometres, the path becomes gradually steeper and involves climbing large rocks, but the views from up there really are quite something. 

Ubasawa Koya Ato Trail (Ubasawa Hut Remains Trail) up Ubaga-take (6 hours return) 

Hikers stand in awe at the awesome display of the green, yellow, and red autumn leaves Mt. Ubagatake is showing.
People stand and admire the view of Gassan from the Ubasawa Koya Ato Trailhead up to Ubaga-take

It’s also possible to climb Ubaga-take without using the Gassan Ski Lift by taking the Ubasawa Koya Ato Trail. The trail is quite a bit longer, taking more than an extra 2 hours one way, but the path is well-maintained and is a great option for taking in the autumn leaves. 

Heading to the Gassan Ski Lift’s lower station from the Ubasawa car park, there is a part where the path veers off to the right just before the final slope. This is the Ubasawa Koya Ato trail. 

Linking up to the main trail

A long line of hikers along the path up Mt. Ubagatake in the middle of the autumn leaves.
On the day we were there the Ubasawa Koya Ato Trail was a very popular route

Be sure to try some of the fresh water along the path that comes straight from the melted snow when you get the chance. After about one hour and 40 minutes you should arrive at the Ushikubi (cow’s neck) junction.

A right turn here will take you to up the last stretch to the summit of Gassan. For Ubaga-take head west (left) from here and follow the mountain ridge. Before long you will arrive at the Kane-uba junction from where a right turn will take you to Yudono-san, and a left turn to the summit of Ubaga-take.

Bonus: Climbing Ubaga-take from Yudono-san

The trails up Mt. Ubagatake can be clearly seen from this photo taken from Mt. Gassan. Head straight at the Kaneuba Junction and you will get to Mt. Ubagatake. A right hand turn leads you in the direction of Mt. Yudono.
The trails up Ubaga-take can be clearly seen from this photo taken from Gassan. Head straight at the Kane-uba Junction and you will get to Ubaga-take. A right hand turn leads you in the direction of Yudono-san.

Another idea I had as a contingency plan in case we couldn’t get a park at the Gassan Ski Lift was to climb Ubaga-take from Yudono-san instead. I don’t see why this wouldn’t be possible, although with all the ladders, huge boulders, and mountain streams to contend with I think it would be rather tough indeed.

The stretch from the Kaneuba junction down to Yudono-san is one of the toughest stretches of the mountain, and that’s when you’re going down. I’d hate to have to go up it, but it’s definitely a possibility.

All you’d have to do is to start climbing up from Yudono-san shrine (which is what we refer to when we say Yudono-san), and then take a right at the Kaneuba junction. The problem would be knowing when the junction is, I guess, which would probably require reading the sign that unfortunately is only in Japanese at the moment (we’re working on doing something about that).

Our experience climbing Ubaga-take (And attempting Gassan)

The wooden trail from Mt. Ubagatake down to the Kaneuba Junction that leads to Mt. Yudono and Mt. Gassan, green hills and mountain paths in the shade in the distance
The trail from Ubaga-take down to the Kaneuba Junction that leads to Yudono-san and Gassan

We climbed Ubaga-take on the last possible Sunday before the mountain closed. One week later and Gassan had a sprinkling of snow. Basically, if you’re coming on a weekend in the middle of October, expect crowds.

I was worried that if we weren’t early enough we would have missed out on a car park, as happened to my friend the week prior. There were parking wardens there and fortunately we made it in time, even getting car park right at the front so we didn’t have to walk that much further. 

Our Plan on climbing Ubaga-take

A couple take a rest and point out over to the far hills from a lookout on Mt. Ubagatake, with another couple standing on the wooden path the leads all the way up the mountain
One of the lookouts on the way up Ubaga-take

We had originally planned to climb to the summit of Gassan via Ubaga-take from the Gassan Ski Lift, then coming straight back down. However, I very mindlessly missed the turnoff on the highway, twice, so probably lost us at least 30 minutes. We went with the intention of getting a whole lot of footage, and also with a beginner hiker, so we really did need that extra 30 minutes to get up Gassan, but it was still a really good day out. 

We made it to the Gassan Ski Lift, purchased our tickets, and took a ride on the lift. Man was that view something else! It would almost be worth just riding the ski lift! Then after a shortish 30–45 minute hike, we got to the summit of Ubaga-take. 

There was a bit of cloud cover, but not enough that we couldn’t see out over the Shonai plains and the Sea of Japan, and then also to the Asahi alps. After about 15 minutes up the top, we headed in the direction of Gassan. 

Heading towards Gassan from Ubaga-take

The old wooden staircase that makes its way up Mt. Ubagatake, yellow grasses of autumn in the background
The trail up Ubaga-take involves many wooden stairs like these ones.

If like us you do leave it a little bit too late, watch out for people making their way down Gassan. Half way up the last stretch, there were a hell of a lot of people coming down, which meant we had to give way quite a lot and were slowed down considerably. That was when we realised the writing was on the wall. 

We would have really needed to push it to have any chance at making it all the way to the summit. With a beginner hiker, that wasn’t really realistic, nor was it that attractive a proposition what with all the clouds at the summit. So we turned around. 

However, I think if you’re an average hiker, and you leave early enough, aiming to get to the Gassan Ski Lift at 8am right as it opens, you’ll do well to take this route. 

A mountain basks in the last of the autumn sunlight, mountain streaked with the last green of the season besides the already-changed yellows and browns of Mt. Ubagatake
Some of the mountain views to be had along the trails between Gassan and Yudono-san

Summer skiing in north Japan: The Gassan Ski Lift

The sign at the summit of Mt. Ubagatake is wooden and worn, but it tells many a tall tale, the deep blue sky and dark green of Mt. Gassan in the background.
The summit of Ubaga-take with Gassan in the background (you can only just make out the summit)

The Gassan Ski Field is one of the rarest spots in Japan in that it is open from April to July. I can’t think of another ski lift that gets six months of action in a year. If you’re coming for a ski, day passes cost ¥4,700 and ¥3,500 for adults and children respectively. The lift is open daily from 8am to 4:30pm, and closes in the middle of June to switch the ropes from the higher position to the lower one.

Places near Ubaga-take worth visiting

Gassan of the Dewa Sanzan

The summit of Mt. Gassan protrudes in the foreground with a bright blue Mt. Chokai sticking out in the middle of a blue sky in the background, the Shonai Plains clearly in view.
Chokai-zan and the Shonai plains seen from the summit of Gassan

Representing the world of the afterlife, Gassan is where we atone for past misgivings and pray for a safe journey into the afterlife on the Dewa Sanzan Journey of Rebirth. If you have the energy, it’s well worth climbing Ubaga-take and Gassan together. Just pray that you have a good day for it, the tallest Dewa Sanzan mountain is known for it’s horrendous weather, giving extra credence to its moniker ‘The Mountain of Death’. While the Ubaga-take side of Gassan sure packs a punch, climbing from the 8th station where the Midagahara Marshlands and Busshoike Pond await is also a very popular option, and puts you closer to Haguro-san.

Haguro-san of the Dewa Sanzan

Mt. Haguro’s Jijisugi Grandfather Cedar complete with Shimenawa rope and Mt. Haguro’s Five Story Pagoda in the background basking in the sunlight
The Grandfather Cedar and Five Story Pagoda of Haguro-san

Speaking of Haguro-san, the lowest-lying of the Dewa Sanzan peaks represents the world of the present on the Dewa Sanzan Journey of Rebirth. Explore Haguro-san’s cedar forest complete with stone stairway, Five Story Pagoda, Haraigawa (exorcism) River, Saikan shrine lodging, and Dewa Sanzan Shrine at the summit of Haguro-san. Of the three peaks, only Haguro-san is low enough to not be covered in metres of snow in the colder months, making it accessible year-round.

Known to represent the world of the present where we overcome our worldly desires, Haguro-san is home to the Shukubo pilgrim lodges, such as Master Hoshino’s Daishobo and Master Hayasaka’s Daishinbo, the Haraigawa River and Suga-no-taki falls, the Grandfather Cedar, Five Story Pagoda, and stone stairway amongst the cedar forest that leads to Saikan and Dewa Sanzan Shrine at Sanjingosaiden at the summit. Be sure to check out the Haguro Kodo, the ancient path up Haguro-san as well.

Yudono-san of the Dewa Sanzan

The bright red shrine gates of Mt. Yudono shrine lit up by the sunlight in stark contrast to the dramatic blue sky in the background.
The shrine gates of Yudono-san Jinja Shrine. There is a path from here that leads to the summit of Gassan.

Known as the Oku-no-in and the final destination on the Dewa Sanzan Journey of Rebirth, Yudono-san represents the world of the future where we come across our future selves, and has an object of worship that marks the exact location we are said to be reborn.

Yudono-san was an extremely popular location in itself during the Edo Period (1603-1868), with pilgrims to the Dewa Sanzan traveling on foot from all over Japan for the chance to be reborn. Yudono-san had its own set of Shingon Buddhist temples that refused to switch allegiances unlike Haguro-san and Gassan, until the Meiji Restoration when it was forcibly switched to Shintoism. This is apart from a few temples nearby, such as Dainichibo Ryusuiji Temple and Churenji Temple.

The Sokushinbutsu Buddha mummies

Yudono-san was traditionally the final mountain on the Dewa Sanzan journey of rebirth, and is famous for Sen’ninzawa, ‘The Swamp of the Immortals’, training ground to the Sokushinbutsu self-mummified monks. Sokushinbutsu are known in English as Living Buddha or Buddha Mummies, and came about through the belief in Shingon Buddhism that reaching Buddhahood in this life was possible.

By becoming Sokushinbutsu, the monks believed they could provide salvation to the people by proving that Buddhahood was attainable in the current world. Churenji and Dainichibo Temples on Yudono-san are home to some Sokushinbutsu, and there are a few others scattered around housed in temples scattered throughout Yamagata and the surrounding prefectures.

Shizu Onsen

Located on the way to the Gassan Ski Lift, Shizu Onsen is one of two major Onsen (hot spring) resort towns on the Dewa Sanzan and Gassan, the other being Hijiori Onsen. Shizu Onsen flourished over the centuries thanks to its location along the Rokujurigoe Kaido, the path connecting inland Yamagata with the Shonai coast.

Surrounded in a forest of beech trees, Shizu Onsen itself is an snowy mountain escape straight out of a James Bond movie, with giant yet humble Ryokan resorts that get pummeled during the winter season lining the village streets. Each lodge provides great views and high-quality onsen water that is great on the skin. There’s even a resort there called Tsutaya run by a Dewa Sanzan Yamabushi friend of mine that was featured in Our Man in Japan with James May.

Hijiori Onsen

A blue Noren curtain hangs over the entrance to the Maluya Ryokan in Hijiori Onsen on the eastern side of Mt. Gassan.
The Maluya Hotel located in Hijiori Onsen

Hijiori Onsen is named after a monk who healed his broken elbow in the hot spring water found there. Tucked away in the hills behind Gassan, Hijiori Onsen is famous for recording the greatest snowfall of any region in Japan, and there is even an annual competition to see who can dig through the snow to the ground the fastest. The path to the summit of Gassan from Hijiori Onsen is the longest available, and requires one night on the mountain.

Rokujurigoe Kaido

Said to have been opened in 1200, yet with its heyday in the 1600s, the moss-covered paths, relics, and old teahouses found on the side of the road connect us to a time gone by. Named after its distance of 60 ri, a traditional distance based on how much ground someone carrying a load could make in one hour (it has since been defined as 3.93 kilometres or about 2.44 miles), the Rokujurigoe Kaido is an ancient path of over 100km connecting inland Yamagata with the Shonai region on the coast of the Sea of Japan.

This path truly prospered with pilgrims paying a visit to Yudono-san, the most sacred of the three Dewa Sanzan during the Edo Period (1603-1868). Be sure to check out the Nanatsuki Falls, said to have been used by Yamabushi for their waterfall meditation.

MOUNTAINS OF WISDOM

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SELECTED PEAKS

100 Famous Mountains of Yamagata
Hachimori-yama (Mt. Hachimori)
100 Famous Mountains of Yamagata
Ito-dake
The sun sets over the ninth station of Mt. Gassan
Gassan, the Dewa Sanzan’s “Mountain of Death” (Mt. Gassan)

MOUNTAINS OF WISDOM PEAKS

KINBO-ZAN

金峯山

きんぼうざん

Exploring The Yamabushi Trails of Kinbo-zan (Mt. Kinbo)

Kinbo-zan is a dynamic little peak with a deep history of Shugendo.

Yura in Tsuruoka city seen from Mt. Arakura

ARAKURA-YAMA

荒倉山

あらくらやま

Mountains of Sakura: Arakura-yama (Mt. Arakura)

Mountains of Sakura Cherry Blossoms and the amazing Arakura Shrine await.

Mt.-Takadate-and-Shimoike-lake-in-Tsuruoka

TAKADATE-YAMA

高館山

たかだてやま

Whetting your appetite for Wetlands on Takadate-yama (Mt. Takadate)

Takadate-yama is short in stature, but packs a lot of punch as home to one of the only RAMSAR wetlands in Japan

The sun sets over the ninth station of Mt. Gassan

GASSAN

月山

がっさん

Gassan, the Dewa Sanzan’s “Mountain of Death” (Mt. Gassan)

The tallest Dewa Sanzan peak with a thriving Haguro Shugendo Yamabushi culture.

Mt. Haguro's Five Story Pagoda

HAGURO-SAN

羽黒山

はぐろさん

The Dewa Sanzan’s Haguro-san (Mt. Haguro)

Home to Haguro Shugendo and the Dewa Sanzan Yamabushi mountain monks

Sign on the Nakanomata Trail up Mt. Nihonkoku

NIHON-KOKU

日本国

にほんこく

The Shogun and The Falcon: How I conquered “Japan”: Nihon-koku (Mt. Nihonkoku)

How to conquer Japan in 60 short minutes

KUMANONAGA-MINE

熊野長峰

くまのながみね

Bananas and Cokes, Leaches and Pit Vipers: Kumanonaga-mine

How a group of elderly Japanese men saved our arses

Mt. Shogadake

SHOGA-DAKE

笙ガ岳

しょうがだけ

Dancing in the Dawn Lilies: Shoga-dake and The Fuji of The North

Shoga-dake is a former Shugendo peak on Chokai-zan famous for its floral brilliance.

Mt. Atsumi in Atsumi Onsen, a quaint Onsen Hot Spring town in Tsuruoka, Yamagata Prefecture

ATSUMI-DAKE

温海岳

あつみだけ

Reaching Peak Tranquility: Atsumi-dake (Mt. Atsumi)

The hidden Onsen (Hot Spring) town of Atsumi’s own hidden gem

A Jizo statue at the top of Mt. Kyogakura in Sakata

MT. KYOGAKURA

経ヶ蔵山

きょうがくらさん

Womb Passes and Monkey Crossings: Kyogakura-san “The Shugendo Peak of Sutras”

And how the Japanese language got three alphabets

Sanze village near Mt. Fujikura surrounded by green mountains and the blue Sea of Japan can be seen through the trees in the distance through the trees of Mt. Fujikura

FUJIKURA-YAMA

藤倉山

ふじくらやま

Sanze’s Little Helper: Fantastic Fujikura-yama

Fun little peak in the tiny fishing village of Sanze, Tsuruoka City

Mt. Maya seen from the distance

MT. MAYA

摩耶山

まやさん

Mythical Beasts, Buddha’s Mother, and buried Yamabushi treasure? Welcome to Maya-san (Mt. Maya).

More than one of the best hikes in Shonai

Mt. Ubagatake in autumn

MT. UBAGATAKE

姥ヶ岳

うばがたけ

The Widow’s Peak: Ubaga-take (Mt. Ubagatake) of North Japan

Must-see autumn alpine dreamland between the two tallest Dewa Sanzan peaks with a twisted backstory

The Autumn Leaves of Mount Taizo

MT. TAIZO

胎蔵山

たいぞうさん

The Epitome of Autumn Leaves in North Japan: Taizo-san (Mt. Taizo)

Mount Taizo all but single-handedly confirms why autumn is by far the best season for hiking in Japan.

HOKARI-YAMA

母狩山

ほかりやま

Mother. Hunter. Mountain. Hokari-yama (Mt. Hokari)

Kinbo Shugen Mountain with a strange name and amazing trails amongst the autumn leaves

Mt. Chokai seen from Mt. Yonetaihei in the winter

YONETAIHEI-ZAN

米太平山

よねたいへいざん

Homer Simpson’s Heaven in North Japan: The Donut-shaped Yonetaihei-san (Mt. Yonetaihei)

Tiny donut-shaped peak in Sakegawa Village of the Mogami region worthy of a snowshoe hike.

Mt. Yudono Shrine Gates during the autumn

YUDONO-SAN

湯殿山

ゆどのさん

The Dewa Sanzan’s Mountain of Rebirth: Yudono-san (Mt. Yudono)

Yudono-san is the final Dewa Sanzan peak in the middle of Yamagata Prefecture that has been a central destination for millions over the centuries

TSUCHIYU-YAMA

土湯山

つちゆやま

Abandoned Ski Field and Phantom Forest of Tsuchiyu-yama (Mt. Tsuchiyu)

Short and quick hike with views of Chokai-zan and near the Mogami River, Shiraito Falls, and Genso no mori, the Forest of Illusions.

Mt. Yamuki (Yamuki-yama) in Shinjo City

YAMUKI-YAMA

八向山

やむきやま

The Medieval Castle and Mighty River of Yamuki-yama (Mt. Yamuki)

Tiny peak that was home to a medieval castle along the banks of the mighty Mogami River.

KITA-YAMA

北山

きたやま

Panoramas and picnics under the Sakura: Kita-yama (Mt. Kitayama)

Former ski field turned into a Sakura-lover’s paradise on the outskirts of Murayama City

KAMEWARI-YAMA

亀割山

かめわりやま

Turtles, Tigers, and a Legendary Japanese Character: Kamewari-yama

Legendary location next to a quaint Onsen (hot spring) resort along the Oguni River in Mogami Town

YOZO-SAN

与蔵山

よぞうさん

Yozo-san: White Snakes, White Monkeys and slimy salamanders

Ancient trail of primeval beech forests, legendary swamp monsters, waterfalls, snow bridges, and more.

YAKUSHI-SAN

薬師山

やくしさん

The Pyramids of… Japan? — Yakushi-san and The OG Japan content creator

Small pyramidal peak in the northern Yamagata town of Kaneyama

ZAO-SAN

蔵王山

ざおうさん

Zao-san and Why We Climb Mountains

Zao-san: Snow monsters, ski fields, mountain hags, multi-coloured crater lakes, hot springs, and more.

OKINA-SAN

翁山

おきなさん

Venerable Old Man Mountain — The Mist and Mystery of Okina-san

 Legends and landscapes on an epic hike along the Ou Mountains

MOUNTAIN PREVIEWS

100 Famous Mountains of Yamagata

KAMURO-SAN

神室山

かむろさん

Kamuro-san in the Mogami Region of Yamagata Prefecture

100 Famous Mountains of Yamagata

YUNOSAWA-DAKE

湯ノ沢岳

ゆのさわだけ

Kinbo Shugen mountain with great views of Gassan, Chokai-zan, and the Asahi Alps.

Chokai-zan

CHOKAI-ZAN

鳥海山

ちょうかいざん

Tallest peak entirely in Tohoku often said to resemble Mt. Fuji, leading to the name Dewa Fuji (after the former province of Dewa).

100 Famous Mountains of Yamagata

TODONO-SAN

頭殿山

とうどのさん

Mountain on the borders of Shirataka and Asahi Towns. Part of an ancient path to Yudono-san.

100 Famous Mountains of Yamagata

KAGIKAKE-MORI

鉤掛森

かぎかけもり

Named after a hook hung over a tree at the summit for good luck, Kagikake-mori is a great spot for a hike amongst the beech forest.

100 Famous Mountains of Yamagata

MOKUZO-YAMA

杢蔵山

もくぞうやま

Mountain that marks the entrance to the Kamuro Alps

100 Famous Mountains of Yamagata

HACHIMORI-YAMA

八森山

はちもりやま

Peak along the Kamuro Alps home to legendary Tengu

100 Famous Mountains of Yamagata

RYUBA-SAN

竜馬山

りゅうばさん

Mountain in Kaneyama Town with a distinctive precarious cliff face.

100 Famous Mountains of Yamagata

HIUCHI-DAKE

火打岳

ひうちだけ

Peak along the Kamuro Renpo (Kamuro Alps) offering great views

100 Famous Mountains of Yamagata

FUTATSU-MORI

二ツ森

ふたつもり

Twin-peaked mountain in Obanazawa City with a cool waterfall and great views.

100 Famous Mountains of Yamagata

KOMATA-YAMA

小又山

こまたやま

Tallest peak on the Kamuro Renpo (Kamuro Alps) by a whisker with striking peaks and valleys.

100 Famous Mountains of Yamagata

KASHIWAGI-YAMA

柏木山

かしわぎやま

Lowest mountain on the 100 Famous Mountains of Yamagata List on Tobishima Island in Sakata City.

100 Famous Mountains of Yamagata

JIZOMORI-YAMA

地蔵盛山

じぞうもりやま

Mountain near Hijiori Onsen with an amazing shrine on a precarious cliff-face overlooking Gassan.

100 Famous Mountains of Yamagata

SABANE-YAMA

猿羽根山

さばねやま

Mountain on the borders of Funagata Town and Obanazawa City in the Mogami and Murayama regions in Yamagata respectfully that was historically a difficult mountain pass.

100 Famous Mountains of Yamagata

OASAHI-DAKE

大朝日岳

おおあさひだけ

One of the 100 Famous Mountains of Japan along the borders of the Okitama, Murayama, and Shonai regions of Yamagata.

100 Famous Mountains of Yamagata

SHOJIGA-TAKE

障子ヶ岳

しょうじがたけ

Mountain along the Asahi Renpo famous for its rockface reminiscent of Japanese paper screens (Shoji).

100 Famous Mountains of Yamagata

KABU-YAMA

加無山

かぶやま

Twin-peaked mountain within a forest park that is home to many ancient trees and bird of prey nests.

100 Famous Mountains of Yamagata

KAMURO-DAKE

禿岳

かむろだけ

Mountain on the edge of a caldera on the borders of Mogami Town and the Onikobe part of Naruko Onsen, Miyagi Prefecture.

100 Famous Mountains of Yamagata

KOSHIKI-YAMA

甑山

こしきやま

Twin-peaked mountain entirely in the Kabu-yama Prefectural Nature Park in Mamurogawa Town near the border of Akita Prefecture.

100 Famous Mountains of Yamagata

ITO-DAKE

以東岳

いとうだけ

One of the main peaks famous as a starting and ending point for traverses along the Asahi Renpo, fields of alpine flowers, and the legendary Takitaro, a giant fish inhabiting the Otori-ike (lake).

100 Famous Mountains of Yamagata

TENGUSUMOTORI-YAMA

天狗角力取山

てんぐすもうとりやま

Peak on the borders of Tsuruoka City and Nishikawa Town at the edge of the Asahi Renpo known for sumo-wrestling Tengu.

100 Famous Mountains of Yamagata

OTAKANE-YAMA

大高根山

おおたかねやま

Mountain straddling the borders of Oishida Town and Murayama City that is a great place for taking in the mountain cherry blossoms in Spring, and for a general bush walk.

100 Famous Mountains of Yamagata

TARUISHI-YAMA

樽石山

たるいしやま

Mountain off Murayama Hayama famous for white snake falls, Itaya water springs, and more.

100 Famous Mountains of Yamagata

(MURAYAMA) TENGU-YAMA

村山 天狗山

むらやま てんぐやま

(Murayama) Tengu-yama is a 403-m high peak in Nishikawa town that is home to a Tengu, a yokai or supernatural being.

100 Famous Mountains of Yamagata

DAIZUMORI-YAMA

大頭森山

だいずもりやま

Daizumori-yama is a mountain in Oe Town on the edge of the Asahi Renpo (Mountain Range) famous for its flora and fauna.

100 Famous Mountains of Yamagata

MURAYAMA HAYAMA

村山葉山

むらやま はやま

Former Dewa Sanzan peak in inland Yamagata Prefecture with an extensive Shugendo and Mountain Worship history.

About the author

Tim Bunting Kiwi Yamabushi

TIM BUNTING – KIWI YAMABUSHI

OFFICIAL DEWA SANZAN YAMABUSHI NAME:

RYOSEN – SPREADER OF TRUTH

Hi, I'm Tim Bunting AKA the Kiwi Yamabushi, a New Zealander who became a Yamabushi Ascetic in the Dewa Sanzan mountains of north Japan. I'm part of the Yamabushido team, and we host life-altering Yamabushi training on the Dewa Sanzan (website I made). People come to us for the ultimate mindfulness experience, to reach the next level, or simply connect with nature and themselves.

I'm on a mission to summit all 100 Famous Mountains of Yamagata Prefecture to spread the splendour of this fabulous location, and in dedication to all those who lost their lives out in nature, including my father.

Sign up for the Mountains of Wisdom mailer for updates, follow me on social (IG, FB, YT, Twitter, TikTok, CR, all @kiwiyamabushi), or send me an email to get in touch.

Tim.

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