Long long ago, at the foot of Chitose-yama, lived a beautiful princess, Princess Akoya. Princess Akoya wasn’t your average princess. She was very adept at Waka, classical Japanese poetry, and could play the Koto unlike anyone else.

One evening as the princess was playing her Koto, she could hear the sound of a flute. Shocked by the skill at which the flute was able to accompany her Koto, the princess stopped in her tracks and began searching for the magical musician.

Way off in the distance, the princess could see a young man dancing gleefully playing a mesmerising tune under the old pine tree. The man looked up and could see the princess heading his way.

‘I’m sorry madam, I was so entranced by your koto playing that I simply had to get out my flute and dance. Please let me hear more!’

Excited by the proposition, the princess replied; “Only if you accompany me!”

From that night on, every time princess Akoya got out her koto the young man appeared, seemingly out of nowhere, and played his flute. Before long, the couple started meeting in secret, away from prying eyes, and became lovers.

However, when Princess Akoya asked the young man who he was his only response was:

‘I am Saemon Taro of Natori’.

That was all the princess knew of her musical partner until one day, with a glum expression on his face, the young man said:

“In truth, I am the old pine tree of Chitose-yama. Tomorrow, I am to be chopped down to make a new bridge over the Natori river. The old one washed away! I won’t be able to come and play music again. Please guide me in my final moments”

As soon as the young man said that, he vanished in a puff of smoke. In that moment a teary-eyed Princess Akoya vowed to help the old pine tree. However, she wasn’t sure how she could do that.

So the next day, Princess Akoya ventured to the Natori River. Just as the young man had said, the old bridge had been washed away in a flood. Naturally, she ran to the old pine tree only to discover she was too late. She watched in desperation as the pine needles scattered in a final lament.

However, try as they might, the locals simply could not move the tree! It was as if it had grown roots. No matter how many people and how many ropes they used, the tree refused to be moved.

Princess Akoya suddenly understood the meaning of the old pine tree’s plea to guide him in his final moments. She walked over to one of the ropes, and pulled very lightly. As if it had been movable all along the tree slid smoothly across the ground.

In memory of the old pine tree Princess Akoya planted a young sapling in the same location, and established Bansho-Ji Temple. Over time, the pine tree grew into a splendid tree and became known as ‘Akoya Pine’. Finally, the nearby mountain pass where the two would meet became known as The Sasaya Mountain Pass, the valley of whispers, after the way in which the two had met.

Resources: here and here.

Hiking Chitose-yama

Located in the east of Yamagata city, the 471 m high Chitose-yama is easily noticeable from anywhere in the city due to its triangular onigiri rice ball shape. Chitose-Yama is famous as a red pine forest certified as a forest for recreational use. The impeccable views of natural features surrounding the mountain such as the water and greenery are also very well-known.

Chitose-yama's trails are well maintained and even elementary school students have picnics there and junior high school students use the mountain for training. Many locals love Chitose-yama. There is even a legend about Akoya-hime and the spirit of an old pine.

Chitose-yama Koen (park) Trail (45 minutes one-way)

The Chitose-yama Koen trail starts in the park to the west of the mountain. The ascent is up a zigzagging trail through the red pine forest. There is a lookout at the summit from where you get a view of Yamagata City.

There is a paved road leading all the way up to the park, but take note as it is steep and can get slippery.

Chitose-yama Inari Jinja Sando Trail (50 minutes one-way)

The Inari Jinja Sando Trail leaves from the approach to Chitose-yama Inari Jinja (Inari Shrine) to the north west of the mountain. Climb up the approach on the stone stairway through the vermillion Torii gates and once past the Jinja, you’ll meet with the Chitose-yama Koen Trail.

There is a paved road right up to the Konyaku-ya carpark, where ten cars can park.

Bansho-ji Temple Trail (50 minutes one-way)

The Bansho-ji trail starts at Bansho-ji Temple to the north east of Chitose-yama. The Bansho-ji Trail weaves through the red pine forest and other forests up a wooden stairway. At Bansho-ji Temple there is a sad love story about princess Akoya and the spirit of an old pine. This trail can take you past where the second generation Akoya pine planted by the Emperor lies.

There is space for about 10 cars to park at Bansho-ji temple.

Places nearby to check out

Upside-down Sake Cup Mountain: SAKAZUKI-YAMA (Mt. Sakazuki)

Sakazuki-yama is an upside-down sake cup mountain in the middle of Yamagata City with great views and a famous shrine at the summit.

Togami-yama (Tokami-yama)

Togami-yama is a triangular mountain that was the location of one of Japan's fiercest battles, and was the reason why Yamagata Castle was named Kajo.